Saturday, October 31, 2009

Chiang Mai, Thailand

After a glorious time on the islands, my mom and I headed to Chaing Mai for a few days. Chiang Mai is the largest city in northern Thailand and is located in a valley surrounded by mountains and lush, tropical jungle. We flew from Bangkok to Chaing Mai for less than $50.00 and had landed in an hour. Not having done much research about the city, we did not know what to expect but, thankfully, we were pleasantly surprised. The first day we walked around the old city, seeing the major temples and eating on the street. The old city is surrounded by an ancient wall and moat and has the feel of a medieval castle in Europe. Inside, however, the city is distinctly Thai. The temples were gigantic and beautiful, one dating back over 700 years. They were amazingly well preserved and I cannot fathom how long it must have taken to create the remarkably detailed structures.

On another note, the first two nights we stayed in a rather pathetic little hostel with paper thin walls. At several points during the night I heard people peeing in the bathroom located next to our room. I love that sound at 3:00 am....Needless to say, we moved to a nicer hotel as soon as we could.

The rest of our time in Chiang Mai was spent doing fun activities outdoors. We went white water rafting, elephant riding, bamboo rafting, on treks to waterfalls, and zip lining. Luckily the mountain air was a bit cooler than in the city and we were able to escape the intense heat.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

A little more on Koh Phi Phi

As I mentioned in an earlier post, Koh Phi Phi is famous for its lush terrain and crystal clear turquoise water. We fell in love with the island and ended up spending 5 days there. We went scuba diving and snorkeling, read our books on the beach, ate delicious food, and got sunburned again. Koh Phi Phi’s one town is charming, complete with cobblestone streets, no cars, and a fantastic array of restaurants, bars, and shopping stalls. Although the island has its many charms, the one problem is the trash. There were random piles of trash on empty lots of land and heaps of trash bags rotting in dilapidated buildings. It was a not so subtle reminder of the islands poverty and poor city planning. It is simply amazing that the Thai government allows the Thai people to spoil “paradise”, and one of its biggest tourist destinations, in such a way. It was clear from not only the trash, but also the shanty town on the outskirts of the island, that Thailand is still a developing country.

Water Logged...

I have not written in a while as I have been travelling with my mom for the past month. She left on Thursday and I was very sad to see her go. We had a great time and saw an incredible amount of Thailand, as well as a bit of Burma and Loas. To begin my posts on our time together, I must start with how my mom and I met up after she arrived in Bangkok at 1:00 am...

We decided it would be rather difficult for me to pick her up at the airport at such a time as my apartment is 45 minutes away via taxi and all public transportation closes at midnight. I also had work the next day and needed to get up early. So, my mom stayed in a hotel her first night here and we planned to meet at 5:00 pm at the closest sky train stop (Wong Wien Yai) to my apartment. It usually takes me an hour by bus to reach the sky train but just to be safe, I left school as soon as I could the next day, which was at 3:00 pm. I boarded a bus shortly after and began what was to be a memorable journey…

It had been raining all day and when I boarded the bus, it was packed full with soaking wet people. I stood between several sopping wet teens and became wet by proximity, much to my annoyance. The traffic was horrible because of the rain and I congratulated myself on having enough sense to leave early. The bus slowly inched along for about an hour until coming upon a section of the road so flooded that it resembled a lake. The bus driver hesitated for only a moment before plunging our bus into this lake. For obvious reasons, the bus did not make it far; it began to take on water and steam poured from the engine. Yet no one got off….I became panicked after 30 minutes of not moving. Even still, not a single soul got off the bus. Finally I decided enough was enough, I was going to be late at this point and doubted the bus was ever going to re-emerge from the lake. I waded through the water back to slightly dryer land to see if I could flag down a motorcycle to take me the rest of the way (which was still about 45 minutes of driving).

It was a nightmare trying to find a motorcycle to take me; no driver in his right mind wanted to ruin his bike in the streets that had become rivers. One after the next turned me down and all laughed in my face for requesting a ride. I waded through mud up to my calves for what seemed like an eternity before a driver took pity on me, but not before making me pay an exorbitant amount. We took off and it proved to be the most exciting mototaxi ride of my life. We zigzagged in and out of the stopped traffic while the water lapped at our legs, rising high past our calves. I am extremely surprised his bike was not completely ruined. Once on an elevated highway that runs two stories over the city, the rain pelted my face like bee stings as we speed to my destination. I arrived soaking wet with a bright red splotched face at Wong Wien Yai station at 5:30. I was overjoyed to be there….

Yet my mom was not at the station. I walked up and down the length of the station over and over again, checking all entrances for any sign of her. I became worried that something terrible had happened. Thirty minutes later, and jut as I was about to have a nervous breakdown, I got a call from a strange number. My mom had borrowed a Good Samaritan’s cell phone and told me she was waiting at a station, which we quickly determined to be the wrong one. Thank God for cell phones. She was at the correction station within 15 minutes and after yelling at each other, we explained our sides of the story. She had been waiting at the wrong station since 4:30 pm (it was now 6:15 pm) and was also panicking.

After all the trouble, we could not hail a cab for an hour. We walked in the rain with her giant suitcases in the dark until we caught the bus. We arrived back at my apartment at around 10:00 pm. What a beginning!

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Vacation time!

My mom arrived in Bangkok a week and a half ago. We ate our way around Bangkok for the first few days. Literally... Bangkok, and Thailand in general, has the BEST food once you know where to look. We then decided we wanted to spend some time on Thailand's famous beaches and our first stop was Phuket. Two days on Phuket was enough....although perfectly lovely, the town was deserted (low season) and the red flag was flying our entire stay. I of course still swam in the ocean, risking life and limb to jump the waves. We then proceeded to Koh Phi Phi Don, the now famous island where the movie "The Beach" was filmed. Phi Phi can be described in one word: paradise. It is gorgeous; white sand beaches, clear turquoise water, lush tropical jungle, a very quaint town with friendly, smiling people. I am in L-O-V-E!

Yesterday my mom and I chartered a boat out to Phi Phi Ley (another island close to Phi Phi Don) to snorkel and scuba dive. I saw five (FIVE!) sharks, schools of florescent fish, and a few gigantic starfish colored in the most unusual colors: florescent periwinkle, lime green, etc. We had a great time and I added new layers of sunburn to my existing pink state.

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

I just returned from lunch with my boss, Rattanaporn. She is the Deputy Director of the Sarasas school system, basically a big shot around our part of Bangkok. She told me that I am “a girl very young and very far from home”. Because of this, she is going to watch out for me and make sure I am happy, healthy, and safe. The lunch can be broken down into three excruciating and yet somehow wildly entertaining subjects.

Subject One: Health. Rattanaporn insisted that I eat healthy and maintain a very slim figure, like herself. She even weighed me on a scale she keeps in her office. She informed me that I need to stay at my current weight, or perhaps lose a kilo. She will be weighing me periodically and will tell me what to eat if I gain (gasp!) any weight. She pinched my sides and muttered under her breath. I’ll have to starve to keep this crazy Asian woman happy!

Subject Two: Engagement. Rattanaporn smoothly transitioned from health into the subject of men upon finding out I was engaged. She immediately took it upon herself to become my “purity keeper”. Nate will be happy to find out that I will not be getting away with anything! In her opinion, it is of the utmost importance to behave like a proper engaged woman. I am not to been seen with men alone and I am never to be seen in a bathing suit, even at the beaches. The most skin I should ever show, in her opinion, is my arms and legs. Shorts and a sleeveless top is where I must draw the line.

Subject Three: Marriage. Ratanaporn then proceeded to tell me how to keep my husband happy, once I am married. Her recipe for a happy marriage is threefold: 1. I must dote on him every day. Kind words go a long way. 2. I must stay sexy. Taking care of myself (and not getting fat like other American women, she added with complete disgust) will keep my husband interested. She told me I need to exercise more and stay out of the sun (as freckles and wrinkles are a sure way to kill a marriage). 3. Cook excellent meals. A man will want to come home to you if you leave his stomach satisfied every night. I felt like I was in a time warp back to the 1950’s…

I don’t know what I did to warrant this attention…the lunch let me speechless. Can you imagine how inappropriate this lunch would be in the US? She certainly crossed what Americans consider to be the work-relationship boundary. Yet after returning from lunch, it became more clear. Rattanaporn is a beautiful, poised, and well respected woman in the Thai community. She has, for some reason, taken a special interest in me and desires to pass on her insider knowledge of Thai culture. My lunch with Rattanaporn, although she most definitely meant well, was shocking and I was reminded once again how different Thai culture is from our own.

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Thai Nightlife

Last Saturday, Hayley and I went out in Bangkok for a rousing night on the town. After going to several clubs, we discovered one dreadful fact: the Thais do not dance! Oh the horror! We had to remedy this unfortunate discovery with a stiff drink and ended up in a gay bar for women. Once again, the Thais had a difficult time pronouncing Hayley’s name. The irony was all too apparent as I sat with “Henry” while a lady boy in a glorious wig crooned Thai love songs in our direction.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Settling In

One week down, one and a half more weeks to go -- that it, until fall break. My teaching job is both my source of joy and my source of frustration. I immensely enjoy teaching the younger grades, i.e. grades one and two. They are sweet, innocent, and polite. In addition, they seem to love me just because I am a young, female teacher who smiles. Teaching English to them is a challenge, however. They understand little and find pronunciation of English words difficult. On the other hand, grades four and seven understand more but have lost the sweet innocence I cherish. Perhaps my dislike of the higher grades is partly due to the subject matter: I have been substituting for a sick math teacher. At this point, I need more experience to determine where I truly belong in the teaching world.

My apartment is….for the lack of a better word, a crap hole. All surfaces are stained and old, complete with peeling wall paper and scuffed linoleum floors. Yet, after hours of scrubbing (which had no effect on the appearance but made me feel better about the cleanliness) it has become homey. I am hoping that I will actually grow to love the pathetic little place.

I finally have Internet in my apartment after hours of scouting out a “dongle”. A dongle is a device that connects a computer to the internet via satellite signal. I do not know which language dongle comes from; I have never heard the term and neither had the Thais’. My Dutch and Polish colleagues essentially sent me on a wild goose chase. Oh to live and work amongst foreigners!

Saturday, September 12, 2009

A Bunch of Characters

With two days under my belt at my new teaching job, I feel pretty good about my new line of work. The kids are ridiculously cute, complimentary breakfast and lunch every day, and a new (hopefully!) group of friends. Last night Hayley and I went out with about 15 of my new co-workers to a swanky bar not far from the school. We drank, danced, and met some cool people. My colleagues are a melting pot of crazy folks: several Brits, three Irishmen, four Americans, one Canadian, three Aussies, six Philippinos, one Frenchmen, one Spaniard, etc. I call them crazy because that is what they are...they live and work as expats in Thailand. You have to be a little crazy (like myself) to subject yourself to the heat, grime, and cultural differences that Thailand guarantees.

We arrived at the bar at around 8:00 pm and the party was already in full swing. As the night went on, my colleagues got more and more loose lipped. Here are some of the things they told me/anecdotes from the night:

Kellen: Took his clothes off after one drink and danced with his belt. Does this sounds familiar?
Jamie: Told Hayley that he liked her but did not like me already. We have have spoken five sentences to each other. Way to give a girl a chance....
Rob #1: Recently fired for talking back to the administration.
Rob #2: Used to live on Patpong Street (a crazy area known for its transvestites, lady boys, prostitution, etc). He told me he would be willing to take me there and show me around; he even offered to pay for a transvestite to show me his/her newly operated on "parts". How nice of him...
David: I met his wife of five years. She is a beautiful (and I mean beautiful) Thai girl around the age of 28. She does not speak a word of English and David likes it that way...
Kellen: Recently fired for talking back to the administration.
Rob #3: Has been in Thailand for two weeks (also a newbie) and has not had any action. He thought this was complete and utter bullshit.
Tracy: Told me that I'll be able to get away with anything because of my looks. Also told me I was hired based purely on my looks. That made me feel competent...
Alex: Recently fired for talking back to the administration.


Although my colleagues were brutally honest, they were extremely nice, generous, and made sure we were okay. The next few months with them should be interesting.

Monday, September 7, 2009

Harsh Realities of Life in the Big City: Prostitution

Cecilia works with a Christian organization whose focus is helping prostitutes into different lines of work and better lives. Granted, some Thai prostitutes actually like their line of work and don't want help. The organization's focus is on those who have been trafficked into the profession or have no other way to support their families. Cecilia told us the story of one girl's path into prostitution. This girl had been raped by her teacher while in high school and became pregnant. The teacher took "responsibility" for his actions and married her. They eventually had two children together but the husband was verbally and physically abusive. Rather than live the rest of her life with an abusive husband, she chose to get divorced and work on the streets as a prostitute. She had no other work options as she had quit school at the age of 15 upon becoming pregnant. The organization took her off the streets, trained her in a new profession, and gave her a home. She now works for the organization and has a desire to help others in the same way she was helped.

Cecilia also told Hayley and I that many prostitutes have been sold by their families in Burma and Cambodia and forced to work the streets. I felt truly sick when I heard this. Although all of us have heard such stories, to be surrounded by it and watching men take advantage of the situation makes it all very real (we have walked down several "red light" areas and seen hoards of western men buying a night with a young girl). I would like to get involved in the organization on some level if time permits. I think this type of volunteer work may become Hayley's focus over the next 8 months.

On a lighter note: I got a job yesterday! I start on Thursday and I'll be teaching Biology and Math to 4th or 7th graders. Should be interesting!

Friday, September 4, 2009

Sweetie wants Henry to move to India

Although we had just arrived in Jomtien for a little holiday, Sweetie (my mother's Thai friend whom she had met while living in Thailand) had Hayley and I travel to Chonburi for some "work" yesterday. Upon our arrival, I was informed that I would be doing a radio spot for the local radio station. I was to read a script Sweetie had translated into English from Thai; a piece advertising the yearly Rising Water Buffalo Festival. Apparently, my American accent will attract more people to the event...

While I was editing the piece, Hayley and Sweetie discussed Hayley's desire to tutor rather than teach. Sweetie immediately decided that she should move to India as it has more opportunities for such work. When I joined the conversation, Sweetie told me: "Henry need to move to India. Thailand not good for her. India good for Henry". The rest of the day, Sweetie tried to convince Hayley to move to India. I could not help but laugh every time she called out, "Henry! In India....."

We took the local bus back to Jomtien, which as apparently an unheard of thing to do. The moment we stepped on, the bus driver loudly announced the arrival of "farangs" (aka, white people). Everyone on the extremely crowded bus turned to stare at us. We shuffled our way back through the packed hot bodies to the center of the bus to hold on. After a few minutes, an old man decided to use me as a chair...while I was standing. He slowly leaned his butt into me until he was sitting on my back. At the same time, I repeatedly hit a small woman in the face with my over sized, swinging purse. During all this, someone farted multiple times. Oh to live like a local!

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Sunshine!

Hayley and I took a bus to Pattaya today, specifically Jomtien Beach. This sleepy little beach town two hours south of Bangkok is a great break from the hustle and bustle (and smog) of the big city. Being the complete idiot that I am, I forgot the address and phone number of the hostel but remembered vaguely where it was on the map. Hmmm... as it turns out, having a vague idea is not enough in this country. We wandered around in the heat for two hours, taking one mini truck after the next, trying to find our hostel. At one point, I hustled my way into a strip club to use the internet after bargaining with the strippers. 20 baht for five minutes on their computer, not too shabby! I am pretty sure Hayley was going to ring my neck. I don't blame her. After we arrived, we left our stuff to frolic in the ocean. It is amazing how a little cool water can turn the situation around.

Updates: I had a job interview on Wednesday with a Thai Public school. I "got the job" so to speak, although it does not technically start until November 1st. If I were to take it, I would supplement my salary until then by doing English camps and substituting. I will take the position only if I have no other options. The pay is lower than I expected and want....

I have another interview on Monday; this job pays more and I would have less students in my classroom. Sounds like a winner.

Side note: my skin is covered in bug bites. Damn you, sweet delicious blood!

Monday, August 31, 2009

Day for Play

Yesterday, after applying to several jobs on-line, Hayley and I decided it was time to have a bit of fun and play the part of tourist. We took the Sky Train to the end of the Silom Line where we boarded a water taxi. The water taxi took us north, past many significant Bangkok sites including Wat Arun, Wat Pho, and the Grand Palace. We got off at each attraction, walked around, took pictures, and enjoyed the beauty of the Buddhist temples.

The Buddhist temples, especially Wat Arun and Wat Pho (a giant reclining Buddha covered in solid gold) are extremely ornate and mesmerising. It is interesting to me that the Buddhist religion or way of life centers on finding a middle path (goodhearted intentions meeting wisdom and knowledge) and letting go of the importance of wealth and worldly possessions. In addition, Buddhists do not worship the Buddha. Yet, the images of Buddha (cover in gold or jade) and those who kneel before them are reminiscent of idol or god worship. The two seem to oppose one another. I think I need a tutorial in Buddhism... Thoughts or comments on this are welcome.

Hayley and I are now off for some fun in our new area on Sukhumvit Road (Dont worry, I spent the better part of the morning applying to numerous jobs on-line). Love and miss you, family!

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Siam Square

Yesterday, Hayley and I woke up at a staggering 4:45 am; we are having a difficult time adjusting to the 11 hour time difference from Eastern Standard Time. Yet a new day brought new hope and resolve to conquer the city. After eating an interesting breakfast of rice with chicken curry, toast with jam, and some amazing pineapple we headed out. We decided to begin our apartment search in an area close to Victory Monument. We had scouted a very nice looking apartment on-line and were hopeful. After arriving and looking at one of the units, we decided against the area. Although the apartment itself was simply gorgeous (with modern furniture and fixtures, granite counter tops, western marble shower, etc.), the area was less than desirable. From the sky train to the apartment building, it was a 10 minute walk along an underground freeway. I cannot imagine how scary it would be to walk down after dark! This apartment is exemplary of what we have been finding all over Bangkok. The places we can afford are affordable for a reason....

To lift our spirits and kill some time, we headed to Siam Square. From what I can tell, this square is the center of the shopping world. Four huge malls surround the square and include everything from cheap discount clothes in one mall, to electronics in another, and Gucci stores in the mall across the street. The malls are connected with sky walkways which zig-zag in and out across the area. Although I would normally never say this, it felt good to just get lost in the hustle and bustle of consumerism.

Side note: In one of the nicer malls, we observed an "American Idol" type of try-out situation. It was hilarious to watch.... those poor souls who actually think they are talented! Don't get me wrong, I am not talented either. Which is why I do not try out for such contests....

We ended our day once again near Khoasan Road. We ate Guy Pad Thai while siting on the curb and people watching. A good end to a good day.

Friday, August 28, 2009

Word of the Day: Frustrated

Hayley and I went apartment hunting today in an area known as Thong Lo. After walking for several hours in the heat and humidity, we still have no idea where we are going to live. Prices are high in our desired area....of course. I have expesive taste, what can I say?

I am already sick of Thai food. It is going to be a LONG eight months at this rate. I am sorry if I seem to project a sour mood....I think all I need is a bit of luck to put me back on top.

Interesting note: After getting amazing Thai massages today, we ate dinner in an area called Sala Daeng. This area is known as the gay district. We were served by men popularly known as "lady boys": a whole new kind of drag queen!

Thursday, August 27, 2009

First Day in Bangkok

At 9:30 pm on Thursday, August 27th, I am sitting in my hostel room and ready for bed. It has been a long but good day in my new city. We moved to a differen hostel this morning; to a hostel in a more touristy part of town near Khoasan Road. After dropping off our bags, we headed out to see the city. We negotiated with a Tuk Tuk driver and we were taken from one temple to the next for little more than pennies. We ended out tour of the area on Khoasan Road where we had dinner and walked the merchadise stalls. My first impressions of the city were: 1. Bangkok has crazy drivers, just as in all other parts of the world besides the USA. 2. Thai's are a very friendly people who engage you often. 3. The food is fantastc. The two meals I have had so far were superb.

I have a lot to learn and thinking about it is a bit dauting. I speak only one word of Thai, I have no job, and we have yet to search for an apartment. Although this is only my first day, I feel the need to settle in and find my corner of Bangkok.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Count Down

Five Days Left:

I am currently preparing for my departure. I feel nervous, excited, hints of dread, and happily in love (aka, I feel like a crazy person). My craving for adventure and new sights, smells, and sounds has lead me down this path once again. I hope with all my being that this move to Bangkok will be a fruitful learning and growing experience. It is in this blog that I will chronicle my time in Thailand, my adventures with Hayley, and a new career move. Bon Voyage!